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How to make your plants luxuriant indoors ？

Author : Linda Wu

Update time : 2021-07-02 14:37:20

OME GROW TIPS

1.How do I determine the right light for my grow area?
Measure the floor space. Multiply the length times the width and this will give you the square footage. You should be able to get decent results with 30-50 actual watts of power per square foot.

2.For larger areas should I go with a single large panel or multiple medium to small lights?
Using multiple lights allows you to better distribute the intense light in more areas of the grow space instead of having all of the higher intensity light concentrated in only one area while the outer edges never receive intense light.

3.Recommended Hanging Distance Above Plants
Seedling: 24'' Germination: 24''-30'' Veg: 18''-24'' Flower: 12''-18''

4.Here are more tips for grow under our light:
Growth stage, turn Growth switch on. Bloom stage, turn Growth and Bloom switches on.

5.Recommended Lighting Time
Veg: 18/6(on/off) or 20/4(on/off) Flower: 12/12(on/off)

6.Recommended Growing Conditions
The rate of photosynthesis and transpiration are directly affected by temperature, humidity and airflow.
The perfect temperature and humidity for your plants are found between 75°-85°F and 50% - 70% humidity, with plenty of airflow to replenish CO2. PH is 6-6.5. You may add more calcium and magnesium than normally needed.

7.Please Note
The light is not water-proof, so do not use it under water environment.Light may be too strong, please wear your sunglasses when looking at it. Some leds seem dim. They are IR. Human eye can not see IR very clearly, but you can wear sunglasses to check.

ledled grow lights for indoor plants

What NOT to Do ？

Your plants need fresh, well-circulating air to thrive. Stagnant, poorly conditioned air is a sure recipe for disaster, so don't be tempted to seal off your growing area to contain odors without providing an adequate fresh air and ventilation system. If you're able to vent to the outside of your room, that's your best choice for odor control. Just be sure to locate your vents where they won't intrude on unwelcoming nostrils.

Light Cycles Explained

There are two phases to the growth of most flowering plants: vegetative and flowering. The vegetating cycle focuses on establishing a solid root system, a strong main trunk, and ample foliage to absorb the light that’s essential to the photosynthetic process. If you're starting from seed, you can get by with less light intensity until active growth starts; heat is more an issue. Keep the seed bed warm, but not hot, and give enough light to nourish the seedlings without scorching them. If you're starting seeds full-spectrum LED grow lights are a good choice because they give all the light needed without overheating concerns. Insufficient light will result in tall plants with long internodes, so don't use a weak light that causes the seedlings to reach for it, creating "stretch."

Once plants are established and in the vegetative phase, they require plenty of light in the right frequencies to stimulate growth. Outdoors, the sun provides more than enough light in all frequencies, but indoors, it’s up to the grower to give plants the quality of light they need. Leafy plants like Cannabis want a good amount of blue and red light in the proper wavelengths for optimal growth and bud production, and while mixing various light sources can approximate it, the simplest and ultimately most economical way is through the use of properly designed full-spectrum LED grow lights such as our LED grow lights featuring the Phyto-Genesis Spectrum™.

While Cannabis plants don't have a "sleep cycle" per se, many growers feel that at least some time in the dark lets them relax and catch up on some other processes that improve plant quality such as root development. At the minimum, Cannabis plants require less than 12 hours of dark to stay in the vegetative cycle, so a good approach is 18 hours on and 6 hours off during vegetation. At the very least, it will save considerably on energy used for lighting and ventilation with very little effect on plant growth.

The flowering phase in Cannabis is triggered by the light/dark cycle. It is started by changing your cycle to 12 hours on and 12 hours off. During this phase, the plants will continue to grow vigorously and require even more light because of their size. Some growers switch to HPS at this time because the plants need more red light than they did previously, but with full-spectrum LED grow light, the need change sources is eliminated, saving time, bother, and money as well as the need to control the large amount of heat produced by HPS lamps.

While it's possible to give plants too much light, it's not likely with an indoor grow room because you would likely overheat it and waste energy. Practically speaking, a minimum of 37 watts per square foot is a minimum, and 65-75 watts is your upper limit for our LED grow lights.

Rather than bogging down in botany, keep your growing simple by following three guidelines: use full-spectrum LED grow lights for all cycles, keep them on at least 18 hours during vegetative growth, and cut back to 12 on and 12 off for flowering. Then sit back and enjoy your harvest.

LED grow lights are the clear choice for serious growers of indoor vegetation of nearly any type.

best lights for indoor growing

Proper Measuring and Mixing of Nutrients

Individual fertilizer manufactures may have different, very specific pH requirements. We highly recommend following all manufactures' guidelines closely. Too many gardens have suffered from "Mad Scientist Syndrome", more is not better and the nutrient manufactures should be the experts and include detailed instructions for a reason.

1. Water- Fill your reservoir, bucket, or other container with plain, cold water. Use a carbon filter (such as a Hydrologic Small Boy) or reverse osmosis filter (such as Hydrologic Stealth R.O.) if your water quality is poor. Allow the water to reach room temperature. The addition of an air stone or water pump at this time will help oxygenate the water and raise its temperature, while helping to get rid of (off-gas) any residual chlorine or other undesirable dissolved gasses.

2. Nutrients- Start adding the concentrated nutrients in the water one at a time. Never mix nutrients together at full strength. At this time you can use a water pump or air stone to help mix the solution, or simply stir vigorously after each addition. If using bottled or
dry nutrients, without organic compounds, the solution should be agitated well for at least 5-10 minutes or until completely dissolved. In some cases, days of mixing and aeration may be necessary for complex organic formulas, and compost teas. Thoroughly mixing the fertilizers and other additives together until they are completely dissolved ensures a consistent, accurate reading. One rule of thumb, if your nutrient program includes multiple parts, the bottle of "Micro" nutrients is typically added first. Lastly, always wash out measuring utensils before adding the next nutrient or additive.

3. Adjusting pH- After your fertilizer is prepared to the desired strength (you can test strength using a ppm or EC tester), and the temperature is stable, start by testing the solution's pH. Use a digital pH pen for the best readings, setting the pen or wand in the
liquid until it is the same temperature, then depending on the result, add a very small amount of pH Up or pH Down. Stir the solution and wait 5-10 minutes while it mixes with the fertilizer, and measure again. Keeping track of how much you added the first time and
the resulting change will give you a general idea of how much pH Up (base) or pH Down (acid) you will need to add to reach your target number (5.7-6.2). Some utensils we have found particularly useful when working with acids and bases include plastic 1-5 ml
pipettes, plastic syringes, and small measuring cups. Glass accessories should be avoided as they can cause inaccurate readings during calibration, and can have dangerous interaction with strong acids. As a side note, some additives and nutrients are very acidic
or alkaline by nature. When using silicon (Si) or products with fulvic/humic acids for example, special attention should be taken. Adjusting Water PH Without .

When you don't need to fertilize your plants but they still could use a drink, adjusting the pH of the "plain" water is still important. With or without nutrients, the pH of whatever you pour onto your plant matters. If you are using tap water or filtered water (not RO
water PH or distilled water) to properly adjust the pH, follow steps #1 and #3 from above. It is important to know that using Reverse Osmosis, Distilled, or other "0 ppm" water by itself is bad for plants, as it leaches away essential ions. We recommend never watering with "pure" water without first adding a small amount of nutrient or additive to act as a "buffer", or it could kill your plants. After adding the buffer, follow steps #1 and #3 to attain proper PH.

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